Seriously, what all do I need to get started with this (archery)?

I’ve asked a few questions here lately, and I’ve just went looking for a bow. I thought that I’d need just a bow and some arrows…but there’s so much freaking stuff!

The bow, arrows, points for the arrows, arrow rests, quivers, etc.
I thought I just needed a bow and some arrows, not all these expensive things (Arrow Rest alone is $80).
To make matters worse, I don’t know what I need. The bow I chose is a recurve with a 28″ draw. I don’t even freaking know what length arrows I need, let alone which points, or even which points will go with what arrows!
Also, there are no archery shops, or even real sports shops anywhere around me, so I have to buy it all off of the internet.

What I want is for someone to tell me exactly what I need for a recurve bow that has a 40-lbs draw at 28″. It’s just the bow, nothing else, and it says it accepts any arrowrest, stabilizer or quiver.
Someone please give me a hand, I’m on my own here.

Thanks.

Your bow is rated as “40 lb at 28 inches draw” (40 lb @ 28″). IF your draw-length is really 28 inches, you need arrows made for a “40 lb draw-weight” (“spined” at/near 40 lbs).

I say “if”, because your actual draw-length may be different. It is measured by pulling the string back to a specific, consistent place (mine is immediately below and even with my ear; yours will likely be different); the distance from string to back of bow (the side facing the target) is your draw-length. Draw-weight changes approximately 2 to 2.5 pounds for every inch up or down from 28 inches (the rated draw-weight is measured at 28 inches – it is standard).

You don’t need an expensive or fancy arrow rest; a simple one-piece “finger” rest works just fine. You don’t actually need an arrow rest at all; I have never used one, and the lack of a rest has never been a problem. Sights? They don’t have to be fancy, either — just adjustable, if you choose to use ‘em. You don’t need a fancy quiver that fits on the bow, either. Just get one of those “tube” quivers that clip onto a belt or pocket, they cost about $5. A shooting glove or tab, or maybe a “trigger” release. These can all be found at either of these two places:

http://www.tradtecharchery.com/

http://www.threeriversarchery.com/

For arrows, just tell whoever it is you are buying your arrows from this information: What kind of bow it is; your bow’s rated draw-weight; your actual draw-length; whether you want to use feather fletching or synthetic fletching (fletching helps “steer” the arrow – it’s at the “back end”); whether you want the arrows painted or not and what colors; and what the arrows are for (target or hunting). The person making the arrow, if they know what they’re doing, will know what kind of points to use and how long to make the arrows. I suggest contacting the folks at 3Rivers about arrows. See the previous paragraph.

Now, for those who have nobody around to teach them, go here:

http://sagittarius.student.utwente.nl/artikel/steps/

You don’t have to do each step exactly as shown, but you do need to be consistent; the important thing is to do each step CONSISTENTLY the same way each time. And it really helps to use the back and shoulder muscles to pull the string back, not just the arm muscles; try to “pinch” the shoulder blades together. (Think like a U.S. Marine: Gut in! Chest out!).

But “targetbutt” is right. Being completely new to archery, you really should start with a low-poundage bow. You’ll learn faster, and better, with a 20-25 lb draw bow.

Product Review: 2010 Ripcord Arrow Rest

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